Everything You Needed to Know About Getting Loc Extensions (2024)

The good news: You decided to take the plunge and loc your hair. Congratulations! Locs are as gorgeous as they are versatile and can be styled in a multitude of ways — once they grow, that is. If you're starting your journey from square one, loc extensions might be worth looking into.

Much like getting a big chop in pursuit of healthy hair or growing out your early-pandemic bangs, there can be an "awkward phase" as your locs grow, as is often the case with other types of hair extensions. (To be fair, whether you want instant locs or an instant high-lift blonde makeover, patience can be a very tough virtue regardless of your hair type.) Maybe they aren't as long as you want them to be just yet, maybe you're bored with the naturally slow growth and want to inject some color without compromising the integrity of your follicles.

First, let's clear up a common misconception: Loc extensions and faux locs are not the same things. The latter, faux locs, is a protective style that starts with forming curly hair into braids, which are then wrapped with synthetic hair to create the appearance of locs. Meanwhile, loc extensions are for individuals whose natural hair is already loc'd but who want some more length for an extended period of time.

As Kathy Clarke, hairstylist and master loctician at Hair By Susy Salon in Brooklyn, New York shares, "Loc extensions allow you to extend or create locs without having to go through the stress of the beginning phases of growth." (Also, while we’re on the subject of clarifications, here's a solid explanation on Vogue written by journalist Gabrielle Kwarteng regarding why, even though you may know this style as "dreadlocks," "dreadlocs," or "dreads," you should reconsider those labels all together.)

Still interested and don't know where to start? We got in touch with the best stylists from the top beauty salons in the game to produce this one-stop guide to loc extensions and where to get them done near you.

Meet The Experts:

• Kathy Clarke, Brooklyn-based loctician, braider, and hairstylist at Hair By Susy Salon.
• Chimere Faulk, Atlanta-based loctician and founder of Dr. Locs hair-care brand.
• Susan Oludele, Brooklyn-based hairstylist and founder of Hair By Susy Salon. Oludele has worked with stars like Beyoncé and Solange.
• Salih Watts, loctician and owner of Loc Lov which has locations in Los Angeles and Washington, D.C.
• Vernon François, Los Angeles-based hairstylist and hair-care brand owner. François is the go-to hairstylist for stars like Lupita Nyong'o and Amandla Stenberg. He has also worked with Willow Smith, Ava DuVernay, and more.

What's Ahead

• Get a Consultation
• How Are Loc Extensions Installed?
• How Much Do Loc Extensions Cost?
• Find Out If You Have to Buy Hair
• How to Maintain Your Loc Extensions
• Where to Get Loc Extensions

First, Get a Consultation

When you're looking for a stylist who does loc extensions, make sure you seek out someone who is a loctician or who specializes in natural hairstyling. Then, as Atlanta-based stylist Chimere Faulk stresses, you should get a consultation with them: "It is impossible for the loctician to know exactly what you have in mind," she says — that is, until you let them know. A consultation allows your stylist to gauge your hair health and discuss in depth what you want it to look like. Loc extensions can last for a long time — years — so you want to be sure you're getting something you'll be happy with.

If your hairstylist doesn't suggest a consultation first, take that as a red flag, Faulk advises. "I could never accept anyone's money to service them without a consultation — especially for [something as permanent as] loc extensions," shares Faulk.

How Are Loc Extensions Installed?

There are multiple ways to install loc extensions, though some, Faulk says, are better than others. "The technique will determine the quality [of the extensions]," she advises. Your loctician may use a piece of hair to create a braid and then wrap the hair around the braid to make the loc. "I use a bit of hair and split that in half. One half is braided down and the other half is wrapped around the braid," Faulk explains. "The [amount of] hair added shouldn't be thicker than the section of hair you're working with."

The final step is knotting the ends and voilà! Loc extensions. "Weeks or months later, when your new growth comes in, just get a re-twist as you would with traditionally-grown locs — no special treatment," says Clarke.

Clarke's technique requires "using a crotchet needle or latch hook" to add the faux locs to your existing ones. You can achieve this with pre-made locs or by building the locs directly onto your own hair. Loc extensions can be made out of human hair or synthetic hair; however, Susan Oludele, Brooklyn-based owner of Hair By Susy Salon recommends "100% Afro Kinky Human Hair" for best results as it closely mimics the look of natural locs.

Some locticians will use nylon and wool string to extend the hair their clients already have. Though this is a more affordable alternative to human hair, you can only keep them in for two to three months, and they don't look as much like real locs. They are good if you want to play with color and texture for a bit, but be sure to wrap them in silk or satin at night, so they don't pill up due to the friction of your head against a cotton pillowcase.

Again, loc extensions are meant to be kept in for a long time. We're not talking a few weeks: Salih Watts, loctician and owner of LocLov in Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles, explains that they can be kept in for years. "We have seen them hold for 10 years," he shares, though that was a particularly long time. "In most situations, they are cut after two to four years."

The relative permanency of the style is the reason why it's best done with human hair. "It's the same reason we don't keep synthetic box braids in for years," Watts explains. "Synthetic hair is harder and often contains plastic which is drying, breaks, and suffocates the hair." Watts shares a story of a client that had synthetic loc extensions: "He had no idea about the difference and lost much of his [own] hair before we restarted him."

How Much Do Loc Extensions Cost?

Let's keep it real — loc extensions are an investment. The cost will vary depending on where you are in the U.S. Faulk shares that when she was a full-time loctician, her services started at $500 and would go up to $2K, "depending on the details." Most locticians we asked confirmed that this sounds like typical pricing. It may cost a cute coin, but when you're paying for a high-quality job, it's worth every cent — you don't want to sacrifice quality for cost and then have to get your locs redone and potentially lose some of your own hair.

Find Out If You Have to Buy Hair

As you would with getting any style that requires extensions, ask your stylist if the hair will be included with the service. If they say yes, Faulk encourages you to research what brand of hair will be used. "If they don't share this information, run," he says. "The quality of hair is 50 percent of the service — the other 50 percent is the technique." You can purchase your own loc extensions or hair at a beauty supply store or from several online retailers. Faulk recommends His and Her Hair and the brand Lord and Cliff.

Anette Roche, founder of NappStar salon which has locations in Atlanta and New York City, sells loc extensions on her e-tail platform FashionDreads.com. Oludele suggests Sumlocks.com to clients who want to purchase loc extensions. She also offers them for sale upon request at her salon in Brooklyn.

How to Maintain Your Loc Extensions

As with any hairstyle, loc extensions require a degree of maintenance and care if you want your style to last and your own hair to remain healthy. Once they're installed, Faulk recommends doing as little as possible to your hair at first. "It's important to leave the locs alone for the first few weeks," she says. Faulk recommends scheduling an appointment for a loc wash four to six weeks after installation.

Speaking of moisture, if you want to keep both your locs and extensions soft and cared-for, spritzing your hair with a light leave-in conditioner before bed makes for easy upkeep. We like the Taliah Waajid Shea-Coco Daily Leave-in Conditioner for this. Faulk suggests the Crown Elements Moisture Infusion, created by Jocelyn Reneé, a well-known YouTuber and loctician. It's the only other leave-in product Faulk likes to use other than her own. Once you spray your locs, "Tie them loosely in a bun, and cover with a silk or satin-lined cap or scarf to minimize friction while you sleep," François instructs.

With proper maintenance, you should be able to go about two months before needing your new growth retwisted. If you notice your loctician trying to add more hair to your new growth, take that as a sign that your extensions weren't put in properly. "This means that the hair that was added to each section is too heavy and less hair should have been used," Faulk says. At that point, you may want to speak to another stylist about coming up with a fix.

Where to Get Loc Extensions

Ready to get your extensions now? Great. We always encourage you to do your own research when you're selecting a stylist, but just to make the process a little easier, we did some of the work for you with a roundup of skilled locticians across the United States.

California

Location: Los Angeles and Washington, D.C.

Specialty: Natural hairstyling, loc extensions, and loc maintenance.

IG: @LocLovLA

Owner and master loctician Salih Watts has a decorated career, during which he's worked with celebrities including Jill Scott, Ledisi, and Smokey Robinson. After building up his D.C. salon, he was able to open a Los Angeles location in 2019.

Florida

Creative Stylez Hair Studio

Location: Miami Gardens, Florida

Specialty: Loc extensions, interlocking locs, sister locs (very small locs), and microlocs.

IG: @DreadlockDr_English

"I can lock all types of hair, no matter where you are from," English, a Miami-based loctician who works out of Creative Stylez Hair Studio in Miami Gardens says. She's known for delivering her top-notch services with the quickness. "I can do sister locs in an hour, where some people take three to four hours." English is available by appointment only at Creative Stylez Salon.

Georgia

Location: Atlanta and New York City

Specialty: Loc extensions, starter locs, temporary locs, and retwists.

IG: @nappstar_nyc and @nappstar_atl

Hairstylist Annette Roche's New York City loc salon, NappStar, was so popular, she was able to expand the operation to include a location in Atlanta. Besides the range of loc services, NappStar offers hairstyling classes and beauty products including loc extensions, styling tools, and kits. Can't make it to either location? Shop her online store, FashionDreads.com.

Illinois

Location: Chicago

Specialty: Loc extensions, starter locs, and loc maintenance.

IG: @christianfields_legacyinc

Christian Fields Natural Hair Academy has a talented, trained staff of locticians that can help you get your best-looking hair yet. This is a go-to place for many Chicagoans with locs and offers services like color, loc styling, and regular maintenance.

Louisiana

Location: Baton Rouge

Specialty: Loc repair, starting locs, loc grooming and styling, and loc extensions.

IG: @hairtamerstudio

Hair Tamers does all kinds of natural styles, but locs are their specialty. They're particularly popular with clients whose locs are thinning, as well as those looking to maintain the general health of their hair.

Location: New Orleans

Specialty: Master loctician and natural hairstylist

IG: @locdbyladycoco

Owner Lady Coco has been doing natural hair for over 20 years. Her focus is "maintaining the health of the loc from base to the very ends of the hair." Coco prides herself on creating stable, secure locs for her clients in the New Orleans area.

Maryland

Location: Hyattsville

Specialty: Loc extensions, starter locs, styling locs, coloring locs, and loc maintenance.

IG: @thelocshop

Want to dye your locs purple? Trying to copy that intricate style you saw on Instagram? Take a visit to The Loc Shop. This appointment-only salon is known for doing killer dye jobs and its cool atmosphere. From the curated playlist to the art on the wall, this salon is a vibe. "It's a very dedicated experience to our clients," owner Frida Brown says. She and her stylists are very keen on hair health, and they don't play around: "We will deny you a service if your hair isn't healthy enough for a particular service."

Michigan

Location: Detroit, Michigan

Specialty: starter locs, retwists, touch-ups, loc repairs, barber cuts, and loc extensions.

IG: __locsoflove__

Locs of Love, owned by a hairstylist named Bianca, has only been open for roughly two years but has still garnered great reviews and a bevy of loyal clients. Each loctician is licensed and they offer a complete service for every stage of your loc life.

New Jersey

Location: East Orange, New Jersey

Specialty: Insta locs (starter locs that are created to look more grown-in), loc extensions, and loc repair.

IG: @privacyparlor

Privacy Parlor clients rave about owner Emily Prince's talent and expertise when it comes to loc styling and care. She's had locs for more than 20 years and has been working as a loctician for 16 of them, guiding her clients through their respective journeys. She employs a team of stylists who will start, finish, lengthen, care for, style, and adorn your locs, putting the full range of their versatility on display.

New York

Location: Brooklyn

Speciality: Locs, braids, loc extensions, cornrows, and twists.

IG: @HairBySusy

Hair by Susy salon owner Susan Oludele's work has been seen in editorials for magazines including Teen Vogue and Self. A smattering of celebrities swear by Oludele's work, including Beyoncé. Remember her iconic braids in Lemonade? Oludele was the stylist behind them. Stop into her salon to work with her or any of her stylists that can handle anything from knotless braids to loc extensions.

Pennsylvania

Location: Philadelphia

Specialty: Holistic natural haircare, loc extensions, loc styling, loc maintenance.

IG: @duafehairsalon

Hairstylist Syreeta Scott's award-winning natural hair salon prides itself in being able to service your entire family. They do locs for both adults and children. The salon says it takes a holistic approach to natural hair care and uses products from its namesake line on its clients.

Texas

Location: Arlington

Specialty: starter locs, loc maintenance, contemporary loc styling, loc extensions, and loc repair.

IG: @locstardfw

Check out Loc Star if you're in the Dallas/Fort Worth area of Texas. They will both start your new locs and maintain the ones you already have, though they do not start or service sister locs. Though founder Paulette Germany doesn't take appointments herself, she's got a staff that's more than 10 stylists strong.

Location: Houston

Specialty: Starting locs, loc grooming and styling, loc repair, and loc extensions.

IG: @kinhairitage

Self-described "loc doula" Vicky Shelton has been in the hairstyling game for 15 years. She originally started her business in New Jersey, but relocated to Houston, Texas, where she quickly became a highly sought-after loctician. "The Kin Hairitage loc experience is special because support is given before, during, and after the process," Shelton shares.\

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Watch this washday routine featuring Bantu knots: